Restaurants: NoDrama Concept, high tension gastronomic cosmopolitanism | The traveler


Score: 7.5
Pan 7,5
Bodega 7
Café 7
Atmosphere 7,5
Toilets 7
Service 7
Kitchen 7,5
Desserts 7

Eight weeks have passed since Pablo Fernández inaugurated NoDrama Concept in Madrid. A contemporary cuisine restaurant that stands out from the many openings that in 2021 have started its adventure in the city. Due to the solidity of his recipes, a reflection of his travels and repeated learnings, and the sensitivity and knowledge with which he solves them, his work constitutes a breath of fresh air that is as unexpected as it is promising.

Two unique menus, apart from a brief menu, allow you to enjoy dishes that are finished on the only bar that flanks the room that has been converted into a pass table. Fernández dominates large areas of modern Spanish cuisine, plays with distant pantries and has internalized techniques and styles of those professionals (Gordon Ramsay, Gastón Acurio, Éric Fréchon) with whom he has worked. High tension gastronomic cosmopolitanism.

Two appetizers open the way to tasting: delicate quail egg on black truffle and toasted bread and impeccable its version of the Peruvian shrimp chupe with prawns from Huelva with huacatay oil. Its shameless miscegenation is revealed with the mini-tacos of foagras on crispy rice handkerchiefs, Espelette peppers and sauce. hoisin. And also with the panipuri Indian, shell filled with a red shrimp sauce and topped with flying fish roe. Some harmonies, such as beetroot slices with liquid cream and caviar, are reminiscent of chef Mauro Colagreco’s dish at Mirazur. Others more predictable such as mushrooms sautéed with low temperature eggs, chicken juice and katsuobushi Japanese are guaranteed success.

With the scallop in scallop sauce, drops of ají limo and basil oil, he demonstrates his sense of balance, and with the capon consommé in which they float tortellini stuffed with pistachios and Iberian ham confirms its elegance. Altogether, free, creative dishes with surprising refinement. The red tuna belly taco that combines with crunchy yucca is covered with a toasted yellow pepper and black truffle sauce, while the low-temperature cooked cheek is accompanied by a Japanese seaweed, bonito and citronella sauce.

The prepostre and the dessert, somewhat less stimulating, is not far from the salty. Sommelier Meritxell Falgueras takes care of the wine selection, concise but accurate, a plus in the bottom line. It remains to be seen if Fernández will be able to maintain the momentum with which he has just started.

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George Holan

George Holan is chief editor at Plainsmen Post and has articles published in many notable publications in the last decade.

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