Restaurants Madrid: Le Petit Dim Sum, meeting with a specialist in ‘dumplings’ in Madrid | The traveler

Score: 6
Bodega 6
Café 8
Atmosphere 6
Toilets 8
Service 5
Kitchen 6
Desserts 5

The space that the Chinese businesswoman María Li Bao and her brother, the chef Felipe Bao, have just inaugurated in the Canalejas Gallery in Madrid boasts the presence of Chi K Kwok, a true specialist in the elaboration of dumplings. His resume includes stays at Mandarin Oriental hotels in Hong Kong and the Shanghai Peninsula, where he put his trade on record. Their xiao long bao (stuffed with soup) that he prepares in sight at Le Petit Dim Sum and steamed in bamboo baskets, as required, they are especially fine. “Its weight should not exceed 24 grams (ideally: 9 grams for the dough and 13 for the filling). To close them, it is necessary to make between 12 and 14 folds ”, he says.

The menu contains varieties that merge with uneven success the traditional Chinese flavors with stews of the Spanish cuisine: succulent the xiao long bao Iberian pork and ginger; tasty the one with veal cheek; bland the siu mai of potato omelette, and something dry and in need of revision bag Madrid-style tripe. “We are committed to an evolution of these artisan bites in harmony with the taste of the Spanish,” says Li Bao.

Not all the pieces come out of the hands of Chi K Kwok nor are they so successful. It is magnificent the big fan, a dumpling rice flour vegetable stuffed with boletus mushrooms and smoked tofu; However the hakao of prawns and ginger meets without the same subtlety. In parallel to their dim sum, which are prepared on the spot, the house pays tribute to Cantonese cuisine with predictable specialties: the fried vegetable rolls and the Pekingese duck in sauce are pleasant hoisin; correct the soup of wonton of prawns and noodles, and not very expressive the pickled vegetables with bamboo, edamame and doufu smoked. Altogether, a journey through the traditional flavors to which its rice dishes are not alien: the three delicacies are not very stimulating and have a difficult texture for those who are not used to it, although the glutinous one in lotus leaves with shrimp and egg is much finer. They meet the ribbons of rice with beef and vegetables; Sichuan-style crispy chicken dice are irrelevant, and well worth the pak choi steamed in sauce foshan.

In the end, in keeping with the low appreciation that China has for desserts, they resort to mochis Japanese stuffed with passion fruit and lychee ice cream with raspberry. If your work with dim sum consolidates, the gastronomic interest of the house will rise significantly.

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George Holan

George Holan is chief editor at Plainsmen Post and has articles published in many notable publications in the last decade.

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