David Muñoz already announced on Cadena SER that he planned to raise the price of the menu in order to defray the cost of the staff – being scrupulous about working hours of 40 hours – and without compromising the quality of the gastronomic experience offered by the The only restaurant in Madrid with three Michelin stars. But the chef has just revealed – in an interview with The weekly country– what will be the price set for your gastronomic menu in 2022: 365 euros. An increase of almost 50% that also makes Diverxo the restaurant with the most expensive tasting menu in Spain.
“The people in the union taught me that the normal thing was to work 14 or 15 hours a day, 5 and a half days a week. And if you wanted to be a cook or a waiter, the first thing they would say to you was: ‘Prepare yourself to have no life.’ And it was normal, we had it internalized. But times change for the better, now we have to redo many things and the higher you are in the pyramid, the more capable you are of inspiring others. The best example is that of Joan Roca in El Celler “, Muñoz assured in the SER.
“Obviously we will have to raise the price of the menu. At Diverxo we are not where we want to be, but at the end of the year or in January I think we will have arrived, and this means having rational hours, being sustainable on a human level … and it has a cost . I want the people who work with me to work more and more at ease. The pace of work in the elite will always be high, but that does not mean that people have no life. Obviously this has a consequence on the price of the menu. Now they are 250 euros, but in January we raised it to what I think it is worth, “he said.
To confirm that the 365 euros that the Diverxo menu will cost is the price of a more expensive tasting menu in Spain, the economic newspaper Five days He has reviewed the prices of the other Spanish restaurants with three Michelin stars and the ones that stay closest — without taking into account the pairing options — are Quique Dacosta (300) and Martín Berasategui (290).
All the restaurants with Michelin stars are in the range of 200-300 euros, actually: Lasarte (250), Azurmendi (250), Arzak (242), Akelarre (240), El Cenador de Amós (227), Abac (225), El Celler de Can Roca (225) and Aponiente (215).
It all depends on the wine
Many of the three-star restaurants in Spain, however, offer the possibility of eating à la carte or choosing menus with fewer passes. Instead, Diverxo opts for the single menu option, approaching the price of many of the great French restaurants, which have traditionally always cost twice as much as their counterparts in the southern Pyrenees.
The ticket Eating in a large restaurant, however, can be much higher depending on the wine requested because in the cellars of these establishments there are references of less than 100 euros, but there are also usually some bottles that can be worth more than 1,000.
The only establishment that could take the title of the most expensive restaurant from Diverxo, in reality, would be Sublimotion in Ibiza, run by Paco Roncero, and with a menu that multiplies the price of Diverxo by five. But Sublimotion is not exactly a restaurant but rather a kind of artistic and audiovisual show that revolves, yes, around a tasting menu. Unlike Diverxo, in addition, Sublimotion only opens in the summer season.
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George Holan is chief editor at Plainsmen Post and has articles published in many notable publications in the last decade.