Dabiz Muñoz plays in the Champions of gastronomy and wants DiverXO be a sustainable restaurant, in terms of economic resources and staff working conditions. For this reason, the chef from Madrid, who has three Michelin stars and three Repsol suns, and who this year has been chosen as the best chef in the world in The Best Chef Awards 2021, has decided to increase, as of January 2022, 46% the price of the tasting menu, going from 250 euros to 360.
To this price must be added, in case the diner wishes, a selection of wines, by sommelier Miguel Ángel Millán. for 150 euros per person, or a pairing that they call high-flying at 300 euros per person. With this significant price increase, it becomes the most expensive restaurant in Spain.
At the moment, no other restaurant of the same category – in Spain there are a total of 11 restaurants with three Michelin stars – has announced a price increase in the tasting menu, although it is likely that the rates will change shortly, due to the increase in raw materials , but also to another factor, and one of the main problems lurking restoration for a long time, and that with the pandemic has been accentuated, as is the need to take care of staff, subjected to endless working hours.
Muñoz has taken note of this, as he intends to make the DiverXO model, which this year has entered the list of the 50 best restaurants in the world (in 20th place), continue to be attractive in every way. The restaurant, the chef acknowledged in an interview with Five days A few months ago, “it is not profitable from the inside. We fight to make it eaten for what is served. It is the pinnacle of what we do, the most aspirational and international we have. The best DiverXO is yet to come.”
Regarding the need to attend to the staff, it has also been stated Joan Roca. who also warned from this same newspaper of the importance of lightening the double shift hours of employees. “Restaurants that can do so will have to try to improve the working conditions of their teams. A personnel crisis looms. Now people, with this pandemic, value other things, want to live, there is a change in attitude with regard to sacrifice and effort, and all that must be taken note of ”, explained the chef and owner of El Celler de Can Roca, who believes that this change and this new direction will influence the price that restaurants will set on their menus.
“Going to a restaurant is going to be more expensive in the future, because staff costs will increase. In fact, there is a migration to other sectors, to other activities, which allow us to lead a different kind of life, and that is a problem for restoration ”. Roca added.
DiverXO already had one of the highest tasting menu prices so far, with 250 euros. Ahead, with 290 euros, is the restaurant of Martin Berasategui, in Lasarte (Guipúzcoa), to which if you wish you can add the 160 euros that the harmony of wines costs. The other three stars that Berasategui has in Barcelona, LasarteInside the Monument hotel, the kitchen of which the chef Paolo Casagrande takes care of, offers a tasting menu for 250 euros.
At 250 euros there is also the gastronomic offer of Eneko Atxa in Azurmendi ( Larrabetzu, Vizcaya), to which you can add two options of wines by the glass, for 150 and 300 euros. For this same price, Quique Dacosta, in Dénia (Alicante), it offers a tasting menu, which is completed with three other proposals: Hydrated Menu, 260 euros, Harmony, 390 euros, with a welcome drink and wines included; and Complete experience, for 418 euros, which includes the welcome drink, water, wines, coffee and a cocktail.
The Arzak, Juan Mari and his daughter Elena, in San Sebastián, have a tasting menu of 242 euros, and an à la carte menu of 190 euros, which includes an aperitif, a starter, a main course and a dessert. In the same city, but on Mount Igueldo, the two menus offered by Pedro Subijana in Akelarre: Aranori and Bekarki, both cost 240 euros.
In Cantabria, in Villaverde de Pontones, Jesús Sánchez serves in Arbor of Amos two menus: Percibe, for 227 euros, and Evoca, for 190 euros.
In Barcelona, ABaC, the restaurant run by Jordi Cruz television, offers a menu for 225 euros, and the possibility of enjoying a wine pairing for an additional 140 euros. Very close, in Girona, The Celler de Can Roca presents two proposals: a menu for 190 euros, to which can be added 80 euros from a selection of wines made by Josep Roca, and the festival, for 225 euros, with a choice of wines for 130 euros.
In the south, in Appointing, in El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz), Ángel León has set the price of his proposal, Salt water, Sweet water, at 215 euros, to which you can add a wine pairing for 100 euros, or a non plus ultra pairing for 195 euros.
George Holan is chief editor at Plainsmen Post and has articles published in many notable publications in the last decade.