Ceibe, modern and promising market cuisine in Ourense | The traveler


Score: 7
Frying pan 6
cellar 7
Cafeteria 7
Atmosphere 7.5
toilets 6.5
Service 7
Kitchen 7
Desserts 7

In mid-August 2020, the young chefs Lydia del Olmo and Xosé Magalhaes inaugurated the Ceibe restaurant, in Ourense. Cozy place that after many setbacks have consolidated with their own style. With the support of their brief brigade, each morning they decide on the recipes of the day, always different, determined by the next offer. An everyday challenge. “We don’t have a pantry, we consume our purchases daily,” they say. Products with which they prepare market cuisine subject to their inspiration and technical resources. Modern, spontaneous and imaginative dishes that are made up to the minute and that the chefs themselves present at each table.

To choose from, just three surprise menus that diners choose blindly without any information other than their prices. It starts with the appetizers, a routine assortment of snacks, the least suggestive aspect of its proposals: pickled rabbit carrots; dumpling stuffed with cooked meats; crispy cod skin with cauliflower and garlic; blinis with old cow tartare and smoked eel, and glazed Miño salmon.

From that point on, the menu redoubles its pulsations. Steamed cockles with sea bass roe and candied lemon peel are followed by chunks of lobster in an original salad with vegetable broth and cow’s milk whey. Soft dishes, with a complex resolution, that reveal his knowledge and sense of harmonies. Something that they ratify with the cauliflower in different textures (raw, in cream and grilled) on fish broth. It is a pity that with the scallops, which they chop into small portions on an emulsion of their corals, they partially disfigure the nature of these bivalves. The hits continue with the horse mackerel cured in salt and cooked on the grill that are covered with a Stew of your fat. And with the squid tartare with the juice of the same cephalopod, a round plate. Or the grilled lettuce heart with mushroom foam, cornbread crumbs and sliced ​​mushrooms.

A worked kitchen, with difficult balances, with which they take risks of uncertain outcome, as is the case with the steamed hake loin with wisps of sumac in the typical lamprey Bordeaux sauce, fragile fish facing a powerful base sauce. It ends with lamb necks stewed with fried gizzards, goat kefir and mustard. Desserts keep the pulse with similar results. One of the most promising young kitchens in Galicia.

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George Holan

George Holan is chief editor at Plainsmen Post and has articles published in many notable publications in the last decade.

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