Casa Orellana, an attractive contemporary tavern in Madrid | The traveler

Score: 6
Pan 6
Bodega 6,5
Café 6
Atmosphere 7
Toilets 7
Service 6
Kitchen 6
Desserts 6

The second headquarters of the Casa Orellana restaurant in Madrid, recently opened, has just started with a menu similar to that of its mother house on Calle de Orellana. Same specialties with some additions. Casual dishes, to snack on and share, in an attractive contemporary tavern with bar and dining room spaces that chef Guillermo Salazar prepares with the ease that characterizes him. In the background and in the forms, predictable dishes, common in so many other places, that are standardizing the gastronomic offer in Spain with a daily monotony. A model that is repeated in the middle sector of urban hospitality and that affects clonic recipes: salads, croquettes, bluefin tuna in any of its variants, steak tartar, mini burgers, cheeks, tripe and some spoon dishes. For dessert, maybe French toast with ice cream or the inevitable cheesecake.

Stereotype cuisine, which follows and generates fashions, with limited gastronomic aspirations. “We do not pretend otherwise. We want our clients to have fun and enjoy themselves. We fill all shifts, ”says Salazar. “We do everything at home. Nor do we resort to fourth and fifth range dishes. Every week we cook 35 kilos of cheeks and tripe, as well as 20 of squid, our best-selling stews ”.

In the dining room or on the high tables near the bar there is a single menu with abundant suggestions that can be requested in half portions. The salad with homemade pickled tuna is correct, although it could be improved; the stewed oxtail croquettes and the unavoidable muffin pringá. There is no objection to the section of cold meats (ham, salami and tenderloin) from the Carrasco firm. Nor to the garnishes, with some notable piquillos. The steak tartar with Jerusalem artichoke chips; They serve the tripe, with an abundance of leg and snout, and, depending on the day, out of the menu there is a tasty casserole of chanterelles with pickled leeks that ratify Salazar’s trade with the spoon.

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The list of fish does not lack the classic garlic prawns or fried anchovies. Neither is the red tuna tartare with eggs and potatoes, which fits expectations, a better resolved dish than dogfish in adobo, lacking in character.

Three unique desserts (cheesecake, French toast and creamy chocolate with toffee) complete the gourmet offer in line with the salty. The unconventional cellar houses a selection of interesting wines.

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George Holan

George Holan is chief editor at Plainsmen Post and has articles published in many notable publications in the last decade.

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